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I scream … you scream …

BY JEAN STROUT

In print | October 5, 2006

Yes, it’s a cheesy name. And yes, the background music is a mix of J-Lo, smooth R&B and Europop. However, that’s where the tawdriness ends. More Than Just Ice Cream is dessert parlor meets bohemian café located in Philly’s “Gayborhood.”

It is sectioned off into two areas to meet both the whims of the sweet tooth and the desire for an innovative sit-down meal. One end is a fairly conventional ice cream counter where the various flavors and several pie creations are displayed; the flavor of the area itself is shown in the form of a long section of wall plastered with posters, pamphlets and flyers about the latest gay-friendly events in town, including parades, theater productions, dating mixers and dance clubs. The other side is filled with small tables and has a wait staff. One wall of this side of the room is comprised entirely of windows to the street, another with a giant, odd painting of an orange fruit against a green background.

The third side of the room is a counter behind which you can see handsome chefs preparing the dishes. The room is somewhat jungle-themed - there are nearly a dozen leafy potted plants ranging from three to 15 feet tall dotting the restaurant. The room is also decorated with Christmas lights, Andy Warhol prints and the restaurant’s logo - an Art Nouveau-esque cartoon of an androgynous character sensuously examining a pink ice cream cone.

The decor may sound campy, but wait until you try the food. If you don’t trust me (after all, any food tastes divine after Sharples), nonbelievers should be comforted by the dozens of awards and stellar reviews that are pasted by the front door. Although the desserts are the crowning glory of More Than Just Ice Cream, the title rings true – the menu features interesting items like grilled cheese sandwiches with apples and egg white omelets with goat cheese and roasted peppers, along with soups and salads, each of which includes a unique touch, and beef, veggie and turkey burgers.

An important note is that everything is BIG, especially compared to the prices - most dishes are between $5 and $10. The desserts are particularly mammoth and mouth-watering. I tried the apple pie - famous for its behemoth stature and brick-like shape, not to mention taste - the chocolate peanut butter pie, and the pumpkin and strawberry cheesecake ice cream flavors, which led Myles Dakan ‘10 to say, “Oh pumpkin, caress my mouth!” It is impossible to describe the euphoria produced by this meal. I can only tell you to go to More Than Just Ice Cream and experience the non-Sharples greatness for yourself. It’s only a five-to 10 minute walk from the Market East SEPTA stop and the service is quick. The food both filled me up and fit within my miniscule budget. All in all, I can only say the combination was fabulous.

WHERE TO GO

More Than Just Ice Cream
1119 Locust Street
(215) 574-0586

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